We finally made it back to the Kingdom after a year away, on the very first day we were allowed back in the country, fully vaccinated and permissioned. Our first week was the hottest I have known in over fifty years of visiting Ireland. Swims in the sea outnumbered fires in the stove by about 10-nil. Sure enough, once permission was given to eat and drink indoors, the clouds rolled in and normal weather resumed.
The amazing weather was a treat for the crowds who had gathered by St Finian's Bay and in Ballinskelligs, initially almost entirely Irish holidaymakers but an increasing number from further afield as time passed. Though everyone was very respectful of indoor mask mandates, there is a sense nonetheless of things gradually returning to normal. Hopefully the many people forced to holiday locally by travel restrictions will realise what they have been missing all these years in the rush to the Mediterranean and return.
Among this group, we hope to include some of the people who have stayed at the Kingdom over the last 12 months. We have been pleased to welcome renters in our absence - particularly Jessica and Isabel, who left us lovely hare portraits - and are certainly delighted to come back ourselves. We know we have lost one potential family who were so smitten with The Glen that they decided to buy a house of their own here.
Though worse things have been happening in the world, the last 18 months have been extremely difficult for the hospitality industry and many places have either gone into hibernation (such as Tig Rosie's bar in Ballinskelligs, and the second-hand bookshop in Knightstown) or have apparently closed entirely, such as the much missed Cafe Siveen in Cahersiveen and pubs and hotels both there and in Waterville. Let's hope that this time next year we can celebrate the return of events such as the Valentia Chamber Music Festival (online only in 2020 & 2021), and if it also means the return of the bus convoys on the Ring of Kerry, so be it, it's for everyone.
While some seemingly healthy businesses have fallen, Cable O'Leary's in Ballinskelligs continues its zombie-like existence. Originally due for demolition about six years ago, planning objections to the proposed hotel have granted it an extended after-life that not even Covid could destroy. Not surprisingly, it is looking a bit neglected, but its magnificent location up the steps from the beach and huge garden make it a lovely place to enjoy a pint on a sunny evening - which nearly always follows even the gloomiest summer day here - and it has been as popular as ever this year.
I'll finish by celebrating another new arrival. Originally planned for early 2019, but delayed by bad weather during construction, licensing problems and the dreaded virus, the Driftwood Surf Cafe finally opened at the Bay at the end of last year, and has been doing a roaring trade despite the various restrictions.
Not only are the location and the building lovely, but the food is worth a much longer trip than the mile from the house.
And there are simpler pleasures too...an easy walk home, at last. Hooray!
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